50% Off Roses

Roses add timeless beauty and elegance to any garden with their vibrant colors and enchanting fragrance. Now through August 14th or while supplies last. Excludes Knock Out roses, carpet roses, drift roses, and rugosa.

Heat Loving Annuals for the Summer Garden

Gardening in the heat of summer can be challenging, but choosing the right plants can make all the difference. Here are nine fantastic heat-tolerant annuals that will keep your garden vibrant all season long. Plus, we grow these locally in our Woburn greenhouses, and they are available all summer long in our stores!

1. Angelonia

Angelonia, often referred to as “summer snapdragon,” thrives in hot, sunny conditions. With its spikes of colorful blooms in shades of pink, purple, white, and blue, this plant adds vertical interest and continuous color to your garden beds and containers.

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2. Bractheantha (Strawflower)

Strawflowers are known for their papery petals and long-lasting blooms. These hardy plants not only tolerate high temperatures but also attract pollinators. They are perfect for both fresh and dried arrangements, bringing a unique texture to your garden.

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3. Celosia

Celosia, with its striking plumes or cockscomb flowers, adds bold color and structure to any garden. This heat-loving annual comes in vibrant hues of red, orange, yellow, and pink, making it a standout choice for hot summer landscapes.

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4. Geranium

Geraniums are a classic favorite for summer gardens due to their robust nature and continuous flowering. They come in a wide range of colors and are perfect for borders, containers, and hanging baskets, providing reliable beauty even in scorching conditions.

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5. Lantana

Lantana is a tough, heat-tolerant plant that produces clusters of tiny, multi-colored flowers. It’s a magnet for butterflies and other pollinators, and its ability to withstand drought makes it an excellent choice for low-maintenance summer gardening.

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6. Portulaca & Pentas

Portulaca, also known as moss rose, is a drought-tolerant plant that thrives in hot, dry conditions. Its bright, cheerful flowers open in the morning sun and come in a variety of colors, providing a ground-cover option that spreads joy throughout the garden.

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Pentas, with their star-shaped blooms, are superb for attracting butterflies and hummingbirds. These heat-loving plants bloom profusely in shades of red, pink, white, and purple, adding a lively touch to sunny garden spots.

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7. SunPatiens

SunPatiens are a hybrid impatiens that flourish in full sun and high heat. Unlike traditional impatiens, these resilient plants provide vibrant color in sun-drenched areas, making them ideal for adding continuous blooms to sunny garden beds and containers.

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8. Flowering Vinca

Flowering vinca, or periwinkle, is a low-maintenance annual that blooms profusely in hot weather. Its glossy green foliage and wide range of flower colors, from pinks and whites to purples, make it a versatile choice for edging, ground cover, or container planting.

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By incorporating these heat-tolerant annuals into your summer garden, you can enjoy a burst of color and beauty despite the rising temperatures.  If you’re looking for some perennials that fit the same bill, check out our blog post here.  Happy gardening!

 

 

 

 

Planting Bulbs in the Fall for a Vibrant New England Spring

As the leaves begin to change colors and the air turns crisp, it’s time to think ahead to the next gardening season. Fall is the perfect time to start planning for a vibrant spring garden in New England. One of the most satisfying ways to usher in the beauty of spring is by planting bulbs such as daffodils, crocuses, and tulips. In this guide, we’ll take you through the steps to ensure your spring garden is a colorful and deer-resistant masterpiece.

Step 1: Selecting Your Bulbs

Visit us in early fall for a stunning array of bulbs for your garden. This is when you’ll find the widest variety and freshest selection. Look for daffodils, crocuses, tulips and more in various colors and sizes to create a visually stunning display.

 

Step 2: Preparing the Soil

Before planting, take the time to prepare your soil. Bulbs thrive in well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Add compost to your garden bed and work it into the soil to create a loose, nutrient-rich environment for your bulbs. This preparation will make it easier for you to plant and ensure your bulbs receive the nutrients they need.

Step 3: Timing is Crucial

While it’s tempting to start planting bulbs immediately, try to exercise a little patience. Wait until late autumn (after the first frost) when rodents are hibernating and the soil has cooled down a bit. This will help protect your freshly planted bulbs from becoming a tasty snack for underground critters.

Step 4: Planting Your Bulbs

Now, it’s time to get your hands dirty. You can either dig individual holes for each blub or dig a larger hole for a mass planting and thrilling spring show! In general, plant daffodils and tulips at a depth of 6 to 8 inches, while crocuses should be planted at around 3 to 4 inches deep. Watch Luc’s tips below for creating a stunning display using a mass planting technique!  You can also check out this awesome infographic on how deep to plant your bulbs here!

Step 5: Fertilize with Espoma Bulb Tone

To give your bulbs a strong start, apply Espoma Bulb Tone when planting. This organic fertilizer is specifically formulated for bulbs and provides essential nutrients to promote healthy growth and vibrant blooms in the spring.

Step 6: Deer and Rabbit Resistance

One of the benefits of planting daffodils is that they are unpalatable to deer and rabbits due to their toxic compounds. To protect your tulips from these garden visitors, consider planting daffodils and tulips together. The presence of daffodils will deter animals from munching on your tulips, ensuring a colorful display come spring.  You can also use any number of forms of animal control from fencing to deterrent, take a look here for some options!

 

Step 7: Extend Your Spring Joy

One of the joys of planting a combination of bulbs like crocuses, daffodils, and tulips is the extended bloom time. Crocuses are often the first to emerge, followed by the cheerful daffodils, and finally, the elegant tulips. This sequential flowering will keep your garden in bloom for several weeks, providing continuous beauty and enjoyment.

Step 8: Protecting Against Rabbits in Early Spring

As the snow melts and spring arrives, hungry rabbits may be on the lookout for tender green shoots emerging from your bulbs. To prevent them from nibbling on your plants, use a rabbit repellent like Rabbit Scram. Applying this product around the garden area in early spring will help deter rabbits and protect your emerging foliage.

Planting bulbs in the fall for a stunning spring display in New England is a rewarding endeavor for any gardener. By selecting the right bulbs, timing your planting correctly, and taking steps to protect against rodents and hungry animals, you can ensure a colorful and vibrant garden come spring. So, get out there, prepare your soil, and start planning your bulb garden now for a spectacular spring season ahead!

 

For more information and frequently asked questions visit Netherland Bulb Company’s FAQ page.

 

Fall Seeding in New England Explained

Fall seeding in New England is the perfect way to ensure a lush, green lawn come spring. This time of year provides the ideal combination of cool air and warm soil, creating the perfect conditions for new grass to develop healthy roots before winter. Whether you’re refreshing your existing lawn or starting anew, this comprehensive guide will walk you through the process step by step, for the lushest lawn in New England!

Step 1: Assess Your Seeding Needs

Before you begin, it’s essential to determine whether you’re overseeding to fill in sparse areas or embarking on a new seeding project. This initial decision will dictate the amount of seed you require.

Step 2: Measure Your Lawn Area

Take a leisurely stroll through your lawn, measuring its dimensions (length x width) to calculate the square footage accurately. This vital step will help you determine the quantity of seed and other necessary materials.

Step 3: Understand Your Lawn’s Light

Consider the lighting conditions in your yard, keeping in mind that they might have changed from the sun-soaked summer months. It’s crucial to understand how many hours of sunlight your lawn receives each day during the summertime when your trees are leafy. This knowledge will inform your choice of grass type.

 

Step 4: Prepare the Ground

Prepare your canvas by thoroughly cleaning the designated area. Remove any rocks, leaves, or debris. Also, keep an eye out for low spots that may require additional soil to create a level surface. For small areas, Mahoney’s Top Soil is an excellent choice, while larger areas may benefit from bulk loam. Don’t forget to compact the newly added soil with a roller or by lightly stepping down on it. This will prevent runoff during watering.

Step 5: Choose Your Grass Type

Select the type of grass that suits your lawn’s needs and your personal preferences. You can opt for a mix of varieties or individual grass types, such as Tall Fescue, Rye Grass, or Bluegrass, each with its unique characteristics and growth patterns. Click here to see our grass seed varieties and choose one that’s right for the light and traffic your lawn will be getting.

 

Step 6: Starter Fertilizer

Unless you’ve applied fall fertilizer within the past four weeks, it’s advisable to use a starter fertilizer. Look for a product with a higher middle number in the nutrient range (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium). The middle number represents phosphorus, which is important for healthy root development. Jonathan Green’s 12-18-8 is an excellent choice for both new seeding and overseeding. Apply it uniformly across your entire lawn area, avoiding separate applications.

Step 7: Determine Seeding Rates

The amount of seed you need depends on your seeding goals. For overseeding, aim for 1-3 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet, while new seeding typically requires 3-5 pounds per 1000 square feet. To achieve a thicker and more lush lawn, consider reapplying seed 14 days after the initial seeding to fill in any gaps.

Step 8: Tools of the Trade

Ensure an even seed distribution by using a push spreader or hand spreader. Avoid broadcasting seed by hand, which can result in uneven germination and waste.

Step 9: Cozy Cover for Cooler Nights

In cooler temperatures, consider using weed-free straw, compost, or salt marsh hay. These materials will provide insulation and protection to your seeds, promoting ideal germination conditions.

 

Step 10: Master the Art of Watering

Your freshly seeded lawn needs about 2 inches of water per week. A rain gauge can help you determine the time needed to achieve this, allowing you to schedule watering effectively. For optimal results, water deeply and in the morning, as evening watering can encourage pathogens and fungus.

Remember, patience is your greatest ally, and the reward will be a vibrant, green lawn that you can cherish in the seasons to come.  But if you ever need any extra advice, make sure to visit our experts in our Lawn and Garden Care departments at any one of our 7 locations!

Happy seeding! May your lawn thrive and impress!

 

 

 

 

FALL IS FOR PLANTING

.. Maybe Even the best time for planting…

It happens every year, people from towns near and far make their spring pilgrimage to Mahoney’s. They come filled with anticipation of new perennials, lush lawns, and flowering shrubs. Simply put, it’s spring, and they want to plant something. No question of course, that spring is a great time to plant, but what many people don’t realize is that fall is not only an equally good time to plant, in many ways it’s better.

To understand why, it’s good to remember that plants do not think like people. While we lament the end of summer, plants – especially newly planted plants – find the cooler days far less stressful. We may dig in our closets for a sweater, but for plants the soil feels warm, which boosts root growth. And while fall rains seem gloomy to us, plants much prefer it to the hot dry summer. And this is true for a whole host of plants: trees, shrubs, perennials, roses, ornamental grasses and even your lawn. Practically anything planted now will have extra time to establish, so when it’s time to grow and flower next year, it will give you a great show at your house, not at the garden center.

 

HOW LATE INTO THE FALL CAN YOU PLANT?

Fact is, if the ground isn’t frozen and you can still dig the hole, you can still plant. Planting in September and October however allows that much more time for plants to become established, so sooner is better.

There are other reasons fall is a great time for planting. Unlike a lot of garden centers that wind down for the year, Mahoney’s brings in lots of fresh new plants every fall, especially shrubs. Check out our new shipments arriving daily. Planting them now will allow you to enjoy the foliage throughout all seasons, including color changes this fall.

Fall is also the unofficial “hide your neighbor” season. Why, we’re not sure, but a lot of people plant hedges in the fall. We’ll have fresh arborvitae, boxwood and other hedging evergreens as well as privet, hydrangeas, ninebark, spirea, weigela and many more deciduous shrubs. (Social note: for neighbors that need immediate hiding, we carry large and fast growing hedge shrubs. The ‘Green Giant’ arborvitae is especially popular)

Also very popular in the fall are miniature evergreens for urns, containers and window boxes. They add a festive touch for the holidays, and with a little protective care they will survive in a container through the winter. If you want to be greeted with tulips, daffodils and other flowers next spring, you have to plant the bulbs in fall.

Perennials especially benefit from the extra time in the ground before next spring. We bring in a lot of fresh perennials in the fall – especially the fall blooming varieties. We also have a wide selection of ornamental grasses – great for landscapes or containers.

Speaking of grasses, fall is the very best time to pay attention to your lawn. Not only do most lawns need a serious pick-me-up after the summer heat and dry spells, the warm fall soil encourages quick germination and cool air temperatures reduce stress.

 

 

 

Fall Lawn Care Tips

Time is of the essence when it comes to fall lawn care. Start fall lawn care once summer has ended and before cold, winter weather begins. Assess your lawn for summer damage and tailor your fall lawn care routine to address your lawn’s specific needs.

If possible, we recommend planting grass seed at least 45 days before the first fall frost to allow for proper germination before the winter hits.

 

Remove Excess Thatch

Thatch is a layer of organic matter consisting of stems, dead grass, and leaves, that builds up above the soil and below the crown of the grass blades. Thatch is a normal part of every lawn, but too much thatch can cause headaches for your yard.

Thatch buildup that is more than ½ an inch thick on your lawn can block access to air, water, and nutrients that grass seedlings need to grow. Excess thatch on your lawn can also harbor disease-causing fungi and insects that weaken and ultimately kill your grass.

Remove excess thatch by using a metal rake, but do not rake so vigorously that healthy green grass is removed from your lawn.

 

Aerate Compacted Soil

Compacted soil can inhibit healthy root development and limit the flow of oxygen to the soil. Soil must be loose and porous prior to seeding for grass seedlings to germinate and grow.

Core aeration removes soil plugs from your yard, therefore creating space in the soil for air, water, and necessary nutrients to travel to your lawn’s root system. You can manually do this with an aerating tool, or rent a gas-powered aerator.

If you’re looking for an alternative to heavy and unwieldy aerators, Jonathan Green Love Your Soil® naturally loosens compacted soil and increases necessary airflow to your lawn’s root system. Plus, you don’t need extra equipment, it’s easily applied with the same spreader you use for grass seed and fertilizer.

 

Overseed a Thinning Lawn

READ OUR FULL OVERSEEDING GUIDE HERE

 

If you want a thicker, greener lawn for spring, fall is the perfect time to overseed! The hot, summer sun has probably done a number on your grass, causing thin or dead spots. Take advantage of the fall season’s warm soil temperatures, ample moisture, and cool nights to thicken up a thinning lawn.

To prepare your lawn for overseeding, adjust your mower to the lowest setting and mow the area you want to seed. Be sure to bag clippings afterward. After mowing, rake the area with a metal rake to create grooves in the soil and remove dead grass and debris. This will help grass seeds make seed-to-soil contact and improve the rate of germination.

Or, if you’re starting from scratch on your lawn, check out instructions here!

Next, spread grass seed. For larger areas, spread seed with a rotary spreader. You should wait until your new grass grows to about four inches before mowing.

 

 

Feed Your Lawn

Fertilizing your cool-season lawn during fall is important to repair summer damage, supply it with nutrients to withstand the brutal winter months, and green up quicker in spring.

Cool season grasses like to be fertilized twice in the fall – one application in early fall (late August to September) and another in late fall (late October to November). The first application helps strengthen weak or brown spots from summer and the second helps to protect your lawn against winter disease. Make sure your second application occurs before the ground freezes.

Opt for a fertilizer rich in both potassium and nitrogen (the N and in the NPK ratio found on the front of fertilizer bags) such as Winter Survival Fall Lawn Fertilizer. Nitrogen aids in plant growth and greener grass. Potassium builds stronger cell walls and root systems, which helps your lawn endure times of stress and harsh weather conditions.

 

Lawn Mower Height

As your grass is still growing throughout fall, it is important to continue to maintain a regular mowing schedule. Once grass growth begins to slow down, lower your mower height to about 2.5 inches. For the last mow of fall, which will usually be between late October to early November, drop your mower to 2 inches to discourage winter disease, such as snow mold.

 

Watering the Lawn

Fall weather signals the end of sweltering, summer heat and the need to frequently water your lawn. Rainfall in autumn results in less evaporation and more moisture so your lawn can sustain itself. While this means your grass needs less to drink in the fall, this doesn’t mean you should stop watering altogether. Water your lawn as needed, making sure it receives about one inch of water per week, including rainfall. Continue to water your lawn until the ground freezes.

 

Remove Leaves

While fall leaves may look picturesque on your lawn they can be harmful to your grass. Leaving piled-up leaves on your lawn blocks necessary sunlight for new grass seedlings. If your lawn is damp, wet leaves can encourage lawn fungus and kill the grass underneath.

Remove leaves from your lawn by using a leaf blower or a rake. For newly seeded lawns it is best to use a leaf blower, as a rake may damage or hinder new seedlings from growing.  If you choose to rake, carefully glide the rake over the leaves when the soil is dry to remove them.

 

 

 

 

 

Patriotic Plants: The Mighty Oak

July 4th is upon us – the day we celebrate the birth of our nation. Looking back to 1776, trees and the lumber they provided were a critical natural resource, providing the raw material for shipbuilding. While modes of transportation have changed in the 247 years since our independence was declared, trees are still an important symbol of our nation’s strength and identity.  

Their ongoing importance was recognized in 2004 when Congress passed legislation designating the Oak as America’s National Tree. The Oak was selected by a vote hosted by the National Arbor Day Foundation, in which Americans of all ages and from all walks of life chose the Oak over 20 other varieties of tree to be our national symbol.  

There are more than 90 species of Quercus, the Latin name for Oak, growing in the United States. They have been an important part of our national history and folklore. Did you know that the USS Constitution took its nickname “Old Ironsides” from the strength of its oak hull? 

Today, oaks are recognized as playing a crucial role in the ecosystems of our world:  

  • Oaks lead the list of trees in providing food for insects, birds and other animals.  
  • They support almost 900 caterpillar species across the US, far more than the number supported by any other genus.  
  • Birds forage longer in oaks because those caterpillars provide high value food, especially for baby birds.  
  • Animals such as squirrels and Blue Jays find acorns a rich source of protein, fat, and carbohydrates. 
  • Leaf litter provides habitat for many beneficial organisms, supporting a diversity and abundance of life. 
  • An oak’s canopy and root system are important in water filtration, helping rain percolate instead of running off, and purifying it in the process.
  • Oak trees sequester carbon.

 

So many reasons to celebrate our national tree on our nation’s birthday! 

 

Exploring the Enchanting Trio of Hibiscus Varieties

In tropical climates any hibiscus can go right in the ground and turn into huge trees and shrubs that bloom more or less year-round. Here in New England, we enjoy a more modest tropical display, in both size and season. But even here in Massachusetts, the world of hibiscus is fascinating and worth a deeper look.

 

In the Bay State it’s important to know what kind of Hibiscus you’re getting and how you can expect it to behave. For our purposes, there are three types to consider: Tropical Hibiscus, Rose of Sharon, and Perennial Hibiscus.

 

Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) can be found in our greenhouse, or among the annuals during the warm months. This type of Hibiscus is hardy in USDA growing zones 10 and 11 (think Central Florida and further south from there). Here in zone 6, we can enjoy tropical Hibiscus outdoors through late spring and summer but they will not survive our winters and should be considered an annual plant. If you have a lot of sun in your home you could also consider it a houseplant and you can enjoy its gorgeous blossoms year-round!

 

There are thousands of cultivars of tropical hibiscus available today. A few notables include Red Hot Tropical Hibiscus, Chinese Lantern, Mahoe, and Fiji Island in addition to the traditional red varieties. In the Middle East and Africa, a popular drink called karkade is made from the dried flowers of red hibiscus. It can be drunk cold or hot and is said to have numerous health benefits and it is used to soothe ailments such as colds, high blood pressure, intestinal, circulatory, and skin disorders and more.

 

Tropical Hibiscus

Rose of Sharon Hibiscus

Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) is a deciduous shrub hardy in USDA growing zones 5 through 9, good news, zone 6, we’re in! It will lose its leaves in the winter and put out new growth in spring. Very little pruning is required as these shrubs maintain an upright growth pattern.

 

These hardy shrubs bloom late into the season when little else is in bloom. They are low-maintenance and easy to grow and come in many forms including dwarf, columnar, upright, and tree form, and flowers can be single, double, or semi-double. You’ll find them in exciting and unexpected colors including reds, pinks, purples that are almost blue and even multicolor blooms. They are heat, drought, and salt tolerant (perfect for the Cape), deer resistant and a favorite of butterflies and hummingbirds!

 

Perennial Hibiscus

Perennial Hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) is a fun one. Hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9 this hibiscus will lose all its leaves in the winter and resemble dead sticks come spring. Leave those sticks there through the winter months then, in the spring cut them all the way back, almost to the ground. Late May, early June you’ll start to see new growth come up from the ground and boy does it come up fast! Enjoy gorgeous blooms the size of your face all summer long!

 

Perennial Hibiscus

 

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Attracting Ruby-throated Hummingbirds to Your Garden 

Seeing a hummingbird is always an exciting event! These tiny beautiful creatures who feast on the nectar of flowers are amazing to behold. Read on to learn more about the Ruby-throated Hummingbird (Archilochus colubris) that makes its home in Massachusetts.

Fast Facts 

  • Males have unmistakable glossy green feathers on their head and midriff and a stunning, glittering red necklace (hence the namesake).
  • These brightly colored feathers around the throat of a hummingbird are known as a gorget.  
  • Females can be distinguished from the males because they do not have a gorget.
  • Hummingbirds migrate in the spring, arriving in the Bay State in April and May.
  • The ruby-throated hummingbird the smallest breeding bird in the state of Massachusetts.
  • Is the only hummingbird species that breeds and nests in the eastern US.  
  • Hummingbirds use lichen, those crusty plantlike organisms found on tree bark, along with other fibers to form their nests and they cleverly hold it all together with spiderwebs!
  • Their wings beat 53 times per second.
  • Those fast-flapping wings burn a lot of energy so hummingbirds must eat more than their own weight in insects and nectar daily!

 

feeders for attracting hummingbirds

Hummingbird feeders.

Early Season Care for our Beautiful and Magical Friends 

  • Put feeders out in late April or early May until flowers in your garden can offer a source of food. (You can check out a selection of our hummingbird feeders here)
  • To make a nectar, dissolve one part refined white sugar into four parts boiling water and be sure to let it cool before adding it to your feeder. 
  • Red dye isn’t necessary. It is neither helpful nor harmful –  it is the color of the feeding port (usually red) that attracts the hummingbird.
  • Clean the feeder at least once a week to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria. 
  • Hummingbirds eat both nectar and insects so if you see ants on the feeder, chances are the hummingbirds will take care of them.
  • Provide a source of water for bathing – it’s another chance to observe them up close! 

 

Planting a Garden to Attract Hummingbirds 

Like us, hummingbirds appreciate a variety of flowers, from annuals in containers to tall perennial specimens. They especially like flowers that are tubular in shape and brightly colored. 

plants for attracting hummingbirds

Calibrachoa

 

 

Consider adding some of the following to your garden:  

Annuals 
  • Agastache (red and orange varieties) 
  • Calibrachoa (both superbells and million bells) 
  • Cleome (spider flower – a good nectar source for hummingbirds and swallowtails butterflies) 
  • Fuchsia (a hummingbird magnet) 
  • Lantana 
  • Nasturtium 
  • Nicotiana (flowering tobacco) 
  • Petunias 
  • Salvia (especially fire cracker red) 
  • Sunflowers  
  • Zinnias (especially large size flowers)  

  

Perennials  
  • Agastache (perennial varieties such as Blue Fortune) 
  • Asclepias (milkweed) 
  • Aquilegia (columbine) 
  • Baptisia 
  • Echinacea (coneflower) 
  • Heuchera (coral bells) 
  • Hibiscus moschuetos 
  • Lamprocapnos spectabilis (bleeding heart) 
  • Lobelia cardinalis 
  • Monarda (bee balm) 
  • Nepeta (catmint) 
  • Phlox 
  • Salvia (perennial varieties such as East Friesland and Caradonna) 

  

Shrubs 
  • Azalea 
  • Buddleia (butterfly bush) 
  • Chaenomeles (flowering quince) 
  • Clethra alnifolia (summersweet) 
  • Lilac 
  • Lonicera (honeysuckle vine) 
  • Rhododendron 
  • Viburnum 
  • Weigela 

If you want some tips for attracting other types of pollinators, you can check out our blog here!