Rhododendrons, the quintessential New England foundation planting, are so familiar to us we refer to them fondly as ‘Rhodies’. When we think of them, we most often think of the varieties with large evergreen leaves that have showstopping trusses of pink, lavender, or white flowers in late Spring. In addition to the classics we know and love, there are many other varieties to consider, such as those that offer flowers in soft yellow, rich purple, and even red. As well as the familiar large leaf varieties, there are lovely small leaf cultivars to consider. Rhodies can range in height from low growing 2 foot tall varieties to substantial 12 foot (or more) varieties. Smaller varieties work well in mixed borders while the larger varieties can be planted as a hedge or a single specimen, to act as a privacy screen.
A conversation about Rhodies wouldn’t be complete without mentioning their cousins, the Azaleas. Azaleas are as much a mainstay of home landscapes in our area as Rhodies. They are beloved for the color they bring in the Spring and early Summer and their easy care, low maintenance nature. There are evergreen varieties and beautiful deciduous varieties whose fragrance will fill the garden. Azaleas look great as part of a foundation planting or in a mixed border with perennials and other shrubs.
Deciding which variety of Rhodie or Azalea to choose will depend on the available space and the light conditions in your garden. Generally, azaleas prefer partial shade but they will tolerate considerable sun. The large leaved Rhodies are a better option for shady sites.
If you are wondering whether you have an Azalea or a Rhododendron, the easiest way to tell is to look at the flower and count the stamens. Azaleas have five stamens. Rhodies have 10 or more.
Rhodies and Azaleas are grown around the world. In addition to our New England gardens, they are known to provide one of the most beautiful backdrops in sports. The Masters Golf Tournament in Augusta, GA is almost as famous for the billowing masses of colorful, mature Azaleas and Rhododendrons that line the course as it is for the skills of elite golfers. Just think, we can create that beautiful back drop in our own gardens!
For more information on caring for Rhododendrons and Azaleas see our care guide.
When we talk about the importance of newly planted trees and shrubs becoming “established” in the garden, we are referring to the development of a healthy root system. This root system is the basis for the plant’s top growth and long term health. And water is the key ingredient in developing that root system. For the first two years of its life in your garden, the tree and its roots are particularly sensitive to water deficits. As the tree matures, its roots reach deeper into the ground and are able to tap water sources there.
New shrubs and trees will require supplemental watering throughout the first growing season, right up to the onset of winter, and again in the second growing season. Water needs to be applied in the form of a gentle and deep soaking, down to the bottom and around the entire circumference of the root ball. Importantly, plants will require this watering at least once a week, and oftentimes twice a week in order to prevent any part of the root system from drying out.
How much water a plant needs depends on its size. A small shrub will need 2-3 gallons of water each time it is watered. A larger shrub, 3-5 gallons. A small tree will need 5-8 gallons. Mid-sized and larger trees, correspondingly more.
Water can be delivered in several different ways:
Leave a hose on a slow trickle at the base of the plant sufficient to soak the root mass.
Slowly pour large buckets of water around the plant, allowing each bucket full to soak into the soil.
Hook up a dripper hose on a timer which will relieve you of the burden of finding time in your busy schedule.
Know which of your perennials are more drought tolerant (ex. Sedum, Coneflower, Yarrow) and those which need regular watering to look their best. Using a watering can or a hose on a very gentle trickle applied at the base of the plant is the best way to apply water where it is needed most.
Sedum are drought tolerant plants.
When and how much we water our plants is of course influenced by how much rain we receive. While it is tempting to skip your watering duties when we get a light afternoon shower, be mindful that a light shower is not likely to be enough to soak the depth of the root ball. Knowing that established plants require at least an inch of water every week, it is helpful to keep an eye on your weather app or an old-fashioned rain gauge to track weekly totals.
Two watering strategies that will not serve your plants well:
Watering frequently but lightly does not benefit the tree or shrub as it encourages root development at the surface, making the roots particularly vulnerable to drying out in times of water deficit.
Keeping a plant in soaking wet conditions day after day will deplete the oxygen in the soil, not a good thing for any life form! Hence the need for deep watering followed by a period in which the soil is allowed to dry out.
Even as night time temperatures cool and the grass is moist with dew in the morning, it is important to keep up your program of supplemental watering until the ground freezes.
There’s nothing like harvesting your own fresh tomatoes! Even if you don’t have a lot of space, you can still enjoy this delicious summer staple by growing tomatoes in containers.
Important tips for your patio tomato garden:
When choosing your container, bigger is always better. The larger the container the better the plant and harvest will be. You’ll also see fewer problems with blossom end rot, lack of water, and overall health from lack of nutrients because more soil will hold more nutrients and water.
When choosing your tomato varieties bigger is NOT always better. Try to grow the medium to small size tomatoes instead of the large ones. Large tomato varieties like big boy or beefsteak are less forgiving with lack of water.
Always fertilize. Plants in containers use up nutrients more quickly and you’ll need to replace these nutrients by using fertilizer. Uncle Mike plants his tomatoes with an organic granular fertilizer like Espoma Tomato-Tone and adds Neptune’s Harvest throughout the season with every other watering.
Tomatoes grown in containers tend to be more susceptible to blossom end rot. Many people don’t realize that blossom end rot is a calcium deficiency not a disease and the cure is calcium, not a fungicide. This makes fertilizing even more important as a preventative step. You could also try adding Espoma Organic Garden Lime or MagiCal for extra calcium. Remember, prevention is better than a cure. It’s best to keep this fertilizer and/or calcium in the soil before you have a problem because if your plants do develop blossom end rot the fruit should picked off and discarded. Don’t wait to feed!
Use the proper soil. A typical soilless potting mix could dry out too fast for your tomatoes. Add a little compost to a regular potting mix or use a raised bed mix like Castline Raised Bed Mix or Organic Raised Bed Mix.
Uncle Mike’s Favorite Tomato Varieties for Containers:
Patio
Not a generic term but a variety. A dwarf plant with medium size fruit. Great for containers 10 inches in diameter or larger.
Patio tomato
Better Bush
A good dwarf plant with small to medium fruit. Plant in containers that are 10 inches or larger.
Moby Grape
This grape is a determinate variety so the plant won’t get too big and it’s everything you will expect from a sweet grape tomato. Plant in a 10 inch container or larger.
Moby Grape tomato
Totem
This is another dwarf plant that stands somewhat vertical and not too wide. The fruit is delicious. Plant in a container 10 inches or larger.
Tiny Tim
A very small plant with small cherry sized fruit. Truly tiny, this one is a great conversation piece as it only gets about 12 in tall! Ideal for a patio table when you have company over. This one can be grown in a very small pot, 6 inches or larger.
Jet Star
Both the plant and the fruit are not too big. Uncle Mike loves this tomato because it’s will be quick to produce nice medium size fruit with a thin skin. It’s also considered to be one of the least acidic tomatoes out there good for pots 12 inches or larger.
Black Krim
This is a nice heirloom variety is a medium-sized plant that produces medium-sized fruit. Purplish in color and very tasty, you can plant it in containers 12 inches or larger. Watch out for heavy watering or rain as they come close to ripening because they crack very easily!
Black Krim tomato
Celebrity
This is medium to large tomato that’s on a determinate vine. If you want to try a large tomato in a container this on is the one to try. It’s crack resistant as well. Use a pot that’s at least 12 inches in diameter.
San Marzano
This is a sauce tomato but most sauce tomatoes are determinate so that means it’s a bush type plant and will tolerate containers. In addition to being great for sauce, these are awesome for salads, salsa, and cooking too!
Celano Patio Grape
This is our first dwarf grape tomato; it’s a semi-determinate hybrid with very sweet fruit. This plant will produce an abundance of grape tomatoes perfect for snacking! Best in containers that are 10 inches or larger.
Little Napoli
A fantastic sauce tomato you can grow right on your patio. Disease resistant, determinate, produces small oblong fruit, delicious in cooking or eating fresh from the vine!
Theoretically, a tomato can be grown in any size pot if you keep the plants watered and fertilized. But following Mike’s recommendations for container sizes will make it easier for you to enjoy the fruits of your labor (and it should mean less labor too!)
Looking for a small, elegant and unique flowering tree for your landscape? One that is hardy, low maintenance and sure to draw admiring glances from your neighbors? Look no further than the weeping cherry tree. Available in pink and white flowering varieties, their delicate blossoms open along gracefully arching fine branches.
But weeping ornamental cherries are more than one-season wonders. Their glossy green foliage brings a sense of calm to the summer garden. With the arrival of fall, the leaves turn golden. In winter, the bronze bark offers rich color and interest. And despite their delicate appearance, weeping cherries are completely hardy and will come through our worst winters without missing a beat.
These trees first came to our country’s attention early in the 20th century. In 1912, the government of Japan gave a gift of 3,000 trees to the people of the United States. The first two trees were planted in a simple ceremony on March 27, 1912, by First Lady Helen Herron Taft and Viscountess Chinda, wife of the Japanese Ambassador to the United States, on the north bank of the Tidal Basin in West Potomac Park. With planting complete, the stunning display of flowering trees became known as The National Cherry Blossom Festival. Next year’s Festival is planned for March 20 – April 14. If you plan to be in Washington DC at that time, you are in for a treat!
And to bring the story full circle, in 1915 the United States Government reciprocated with a gift of flowering dogwoods to the people of Japan.
Check out our printable care guide for more information on planting and caring for these beauties!
Your evergreens are hungry! Spring is a great time to feed with Holly-Tone to help them be their best all season. Watch as Patrick demonstrates how to feed a holly with Holly-Tone. Right now Holly-Tone and Plant-Tone are on special: 18 lb. bags for $19.50 (reg. $24.99) and 50 lb. bags for $39.50 (reg. $49.99). Available at all locations.
Pottery is an investment that can add interest to your home and show off your personal style no matter what plants you choose to put in them. But with so many styles and colors to choose from, deciding what’s right for you and your plants isn’t totally straightforward. We are here to help demystify the process with a few things to keep in mind when choosing a container for your home, porch, or yard.
Size Matters.
When it comes to pottery, size is a major factor both for your budget and for the health of the plants you place in your pots. You may be tempted to go big so that you never have to re-pot but be careful! When plants are planted into containers significantly larger than their nursery pots the root system is not robust enough to absorb all the water in the soil and that can lead to root rot. A good rule of thumb when transplanting into a new container is that the diameter of the new pot should only be about two inches wider than the plant’s current pot.
If you fall in love with a decorative container that’s too large for your plant but you know that it will eventually grow into it you can slowly acclimate it to the larger pot using inexpensive grow pots that fit inside your decorative container or by using an Ups-A-Daisy, which will reduce the amount of soil you need in the pot until your plant’s root system is ready for more.
An Ups-A-Daisy can reduce the amount of soil needed to fill your pot!
On the flip side, you do not want to try to cram a plant in a six-inch diameter grow pot into another six-inch diameter decorative pot, particularly if the decorative pot has a tapered bottom. Never go smaller, your plants need room to grow.
Drainage and Airflow are Important.
You may have noticed that when you buy plants, they usually come in plastic containers with several drainage holes along the bottom. Air is every bit as important to a healthy root system as water. Roots cannot breathe when the soil is sopping wet, all the air molecules get crowded out by water molecules. If you are planning to transplant directly into a decorative container, drainage holes are a must. It is even better if you can get air moving under your plant. Pot feet or Ups-A-Daisys are a terrific way to do this.
Pot feet create airflow under your container.
Some decorative indoor containers are manufactured without holes so that indoor surfaces are protected. These are called cache pots and it is best to leave your plants in their grow pots (with all those drainage holes) and pop the whole thing into the container. Check out the video below for how to use a cache pot!
Different Materials Meet Different Goals.
Now that we understand the basics of size, drainage, and airflow, it is time to choose a container made from materials that meet your specific needs.
Terra Cotta
A favorite of plants everywhere and a classic that is making its way back into chic and modern home design, terra cotta is a smart choice for even moisture distribution and healthy roots. Because terra cotta is porous, oxygen exchange is facilitated throughout the root system, not just at the bottom. Additionally, terra cotta absorbs excess moisture to prevent plant roots from staying soggy for too long. These days, terra cotta is available not just in the classic earthy orange but also in attractive “chocolate” and “vanilla” tones to seamlessly integrate into any color scheme.
Terra cotta is the hands down favorite of most plants.
Glazed Pottery
Speaking of color, nothing offers the variety of hues like glazed ceramic pottery. Additionally, you will find a broad selection of shapes and sizes and many of these pots are crafted to be frost resistant. However, keep in mind that frost-resistant does not mean it is freeze-proof. Water expands when it turns to ice so moisture in your planters can push a ceramic pot to the breaking point during a freeze. Raising your outdoor pots off the ground with pot feet can help create airflow that will melt the ice during warmer days. When in doubt, it is best to empty your ceramic pots and bring them into the garage after Christmas to protect your investment. A dolly is helpful for this!
Glazed pottery at Mahoney’s in Winchester.
Lightweight Fiber Clay
Great for indoors or out, lightweight fiber clay offers the gravitas of stone with the easy maneuverability of durable plastic. Fiber clay is freeze-tolerant, making it a good option for year-round use but it’s important to keep a few things in mind:
Using ice melt around fiber clay will corrode the finish. Keep them looking great by avoiding the base of the pot when using ice melt.
Even freeze-tolerant materials like fiber clay can still crack if moisture in the soil inside them freezes and expands. To prevent this, we suggest raising all your outdoor pots on pot feet. Elevating them allows for better drainage and airflow, so water doesn’t accumulate and freeze.
By taking these simple steps, you can keep your outdoor pottery safe and looking great all year round.
Lightweight fiber clay, also known as fiber cement.
Plastic
If you know you will be moving your pots around to suit your design choices or crops each season, plastic is another great and affordable choice. It’s ideal for container gardening with herbs, veggies, and annuals and available in several different colors and finishes. Do be sure to bring these inside for the winter. Plastic will easily crack if it gets too cold. Fortunately, this is easy to do since they are so lightweight!
Plastic pots are easy to stack, store, and move throughout the season.
Cedar Boxes
The ultimate choice for New England, cedar boxes are classic, beautiful, and easily withstand freezing temperatures. Cedar will naturally weather to a lovely beachy grey tone, but you can preserve the original wood color by staining with a protective finish or paint to suit your color palette. Be sure to treat inside and out to prolong the life of the wood and if you are using the container for edibles, finish with non-toxic linseed oil.
Cedar boxes are the most durable choice for year round use.
Specialty Pots
Certain plants will benefit from specialized pots to live their best life. These include orchids, which are epiphytes and like their roots to be extremely well-aerated. That’s why orchid pots have holes in the sides to provide sufficient air circulation! On the other hand, African violets and ferns like to stay consistently moist and self-watering pots are great for this purpose.
The terra cotta inner pot wicks moisture up to the plant from the decorative reservoir!
Come check out our expansive pottery selection at any one of our 7 locations! Or shop a portion of our indoor and outdoor pottery selection online!
“Is this a good time to prune my…?” The question of when to prune is one we often hear. The confusion is understandable since some shrubs are best pruned in spring, others in summer, and still others prefer to be shorn in the fall.
Late winter or very early spring is the best time to prune shrubs that flower on “new wood” — the growth that forms in spring. Late March to mid-April is ideal. These shrubs form their flower buds in the spring and early summer, and bloom in the summer and into the fall.
Here are our favorite new wood bloomers who would love (and reward you handsomely) for a fresh spring haircut right now:
Butterfly Bush
Buddleia davidii
As you may have guessed from the name, these are pollinator favorites that offer lovely fragrant blooms late in the summer. To keep this shrub a manageable size, don’t be shy about pruning it to a height of 12-18 inches. Fortunately its branches are slender and easy to prune with hand-held pruners.
Buddleia
Bluebeard
Caryopteris spp.
These late summer bloomers will be covered in delicate looking blue flowers that draw butterflies, bees, beneficial insects, not to mention admiring comments from your neighbors. Like Buddleia, its branches are easy to cut and should be taken back to 12-18 inches. While this early spring pruning seems drastic, the plant will quickly flush new growth.
Rose of Sharon
Hibiscus syriacus
Rose of Sharon is valued for its late summer blooms that cover the shrub from top to bottom. However, if left unpruned, it will develop sturdy, but bare, upward growing branches and the flowers will be above eye level. An early spring pruning each year will keep the flowers where you can most enjoy them.
Hydrangea paniculata
These showstoppers have cone-shaped flowers that initially appear in white and cream tones before deepening to shades of pink and red. Once they reach maturity, this type of Hydrangea can be pruned to almost any height.
Panicle Hydrangea
St. John’s Wort
Hypericum perforatum
St. John’s Wart has been known for its medicinal benefits for hundreds of years. In our gardens, we love its yellow buttercup type flowers and red berries that we often use for holiday decorating. Pruning to a height of 12-18 inches and watch it rebound to a height of 3 feet!
Winterberry
Ilex verticillata
Winterberry is prized for its heavy showing of red berries that remain on the shrub well into winter before they are sweet enough to tempt the birds. This shrub is easily pruned to a size of your choosing.
Cinquefoil
Potentilla spp.
This collectible shrub offers a bright spot in the landscape with flowers in tones of yellow, pink, red or white. Its delicate leaves and gently spreading structure add to its appeal. Prune gently to keep it neat and tidy.
Roses
Rosa spp.
As our very own rosarian Jeannette likes to say, “when the forsythia blooms in New England, it’s time to prune your roses. Watch as Jeannette takes you through her tried and true techniques for early spring rose pruning.
Spirea
Spiraea spp.
With its brightly colored flowers, Golden elf is a steady performer and so easy to love for its easy care and longevity. Like Potentilla, it happily accepts pruning in early spring.
You might be saying what about Rhododendrons and Azaleas? And our beloved Lilac and Forsythia? Don’t worry about those just yet, they are best left alone in early spring. Fear not, we’ll be sharing some information about pruning these shrubs when the time is right (Hint: after they flower!)
Shrubs add beauty and structure to our gardens. During the first few years after planting, a shrub requires little to no pruning. As it matures, selective pruning can increase bloom, improve shape and or reduce size. Whatever your objective, intentional pruning helps produce a natural looking shrub with a graceful form. Below we’ll walk through the basics of spring pruning from tools to technique!
Choose the right tools.
Use clean, sharp hand tools rather than electric shears. Shearing a shrub promotes dense growth at the branch tips. This blocks light and inhibits air circulation inside the shrub, which can eventually lead to the shrub’s decline, either by disease or lack of foliage for photosynthesis. And remember to always disinfect your tools with rubbing alcohol before you begin. Need a new pair for the new season? Check out our selection here.
Keep two thirds!
A shrub is not a poodle. Never remove more than one-third of the shrub’s mass in any given year. This preserves enough foliage for the plant to make sufficient food to stay robust and generate new growth quickly.
Choose a pruning method that meets your goals and the plant’s needs.
A “heading cut” is used to shorten a branch. The direction in which the top remaining bud is pointing will determine the direction of new growth. Prune one quarter inch above the bud, making the cut at a slight angle.
A “thinning cut” reduces the density of the shrub by removing branches at their point of origin from the center of the shrub.
Clean up.
Always remove dead, diseased or broken branches as soon as you notice them.
With few exceptions, you should avoid coating pruning cuts on shrubs or trees with wound dressing or paint. Trees and shrubs have their own mechanisms to heal a wound and need oxygen for proper recovery. In some cases wound dressings inhibit the availability of oxygen which is needed for proper recovery.
Know when to prune.
Different shrubs should be pruned at different times of the year depending on their individual biological make-up and bloom season. Read our blog on Nine Shrubs to Prune in April for some of the common favorites who would benefit from an early trim!
The bright yellow flowers of Forsythia are a sure sign that winter is behind us. Long a staple in gardens throughout New England, we sometimes take these familiar stalwarts for granted. But here is a variety that will inspire you to renew your acquaintance with this useful shrub.
Forsythia ‘Lynwood Gold’ offers the largest flowers of any Forsythia, creating a spectacular display. It has deep golden yellow flowers which literally cover the branches with bloom. The effect is stunning. The foliage emerges after the flowers fade and in autumn, the leaves turn a lovely butter yellow.
Upright in its growth habit, ‘Lynwood Gold’ will grow 6’-8’ in height and a similar width. It is easily pruned to maintain a desired size; however, pruning should be done immediately after flowering as flower buds for next spring will form during this summer. A mid-summer or fall pruning will remove next year’s flower show.
Forsythia performs best in full sun. It can be grown as a specimen plant or planted in a row to create an attractive deciduous hedge. And who can resist cutting a few branches of Forsythia as the blooms begin to open and bringing them indoors for a beautiful spring bouquet!
