poinsettia

How to Care for Christmas Plants After the Holidays

What to Do With Your Christmas Plants After the Holidays

 

Ah, the holidays are over, and the decorations are packed away—but what about your festive plants? Those poinsettias, Christmas cacti, and amaryllises can keep thriving (and even rebloom) with a little post-holiday care. Instead of tossing them out, let’s show these beauties some love and extend their magic into the new year.  Don’t have your holiday plants yet?  No worries, shop them here!

 

 

poinsettia Christmas Plants After the HolidaysPoinsettia: Beyond the Red and Green Glow

Poinsettias are famous for their bold, colorful bracts (often mistaken for flowers), but they don’t have to be a one-season wonder. Here’s how to keep them going:

  • After the Holidays: Place your poinsettia in a bright, sunny spot away from drafts, heating vents, or cold windows. Water it when the top inch of soil feels dry, but don’t let it sit in water—good drainage is key.
  • As Spring Approaches: Around March or April, cut back the stems to about 4–6 inches. Don’t panic—it’ll grow back fuller! Keep watering and fertilize once a month with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer.
  • Reblooming Challenge: Want it to turn red again? Starting in September, give your poinsettia 14–16 hours of complete darkness each day (a dark closet works well) and bright light during the day. Do this for about 8 weeks, and voilà—holiday colors return!

 

 

Christmas Cactus: A Gift That Keeps on Giving

Christmas cacti are hardy, low-maintenance plants that can bloom year after year with proper care.

  • Post-Holiday Care: Keep your Christmas cactus in a spot with bright, indirect light and water it when the top inch of soil feels dry. These plants enjoy a bit more humidity, so placing them near a humidifier or on a pebble tray will keep them happy!
  • Year-Round Maintenance: After the blooms fade, trim back any leggy growth to keep the plant tidy. Feed it monthly during the growing season (spring through summer) with a cactus fertilizer or diluted houseplant food.
  • Reblooming Tips: To trigger new buds, Christmas cacti need cooler temperatures (50–55°F) and 12–14 hours of darkness each night for about 6 weeks in the fall. Once you see buds forming, move it back to its usual spot and resume regular care.

 

 

amaryllis Christmas Plants After the Holidays

Amaryllis: The Star of the Show

Amaryllis bulbs produce stunning, trumpet-shaped flowers that steal the spotlight during the holidays. With a little effort, they can bloom again next year.

  1. After the Blooms Fade: Once the flowers wilt, cut the stalk down to about 1 inch above the bulb, but leave the leaves intact. These leaves are essential for photosynthesis, which feeds the bulb for future blooms.
  2. Summer Vacation: In spring or summer, you can move your amaryllis outdoors to a sunny spot (after the risk of frost is gone). Keep watering and fertilizing every few weeks to help the bulb recharge.
  3. Reblooming Prep: In late summer or early fall, bring the bulb back indoors and let it rest in a cool, dark place for 8–10 weeks. Stop watering during this dormancy period. After the rest, repot the bulb, start watering, and wait for new growth to signal it’s gearing up to bloom again.

 

Paperwhites: One-Time Wonders (But Worth It!)

Paperwhites are delightful and fragrant holiday blooms, but they’re typically one-and-done when grown indoors. Once the flowers fade:

  • After Bloom Care: Allow the foliage to die back naturally, which helps the bulb store energy.
  • Outdoor Options: In warm climates (zones 8–11), you can plant them in the garden for future blooms. Otherwise, compost the bulbs—they rarely rebloom indoors.

 

 

 

cyclamen Christmas Plants After the Holidays

Cyclamen: A Cool-Weather Superstar

Cyclamen are known for their vibrant flowers and heart-shaped leaves, and with the right care, they can bloom for months!

  • Post-Holiday Care: Keep your cyclamen in a cool spot (60–65°F) with bright, indirect light. Water when the soil feels dry, but avoid letting water sit on the leaves or crown.
  • Summer Dormancy: When blooming slows down, don’t worry! Cyclamen often go dormant in summer. Stop watering and let the foliage yellow and die back naturally.
  • Reblooming: Once fall rolls around, repot the tuber, start watering again, and watch for new growth—your cyclamen is ready for another season of beauty!

 

 

 

With a little extra care, your holiday plants can bring beauty and joy for years to come. It’s like carrying a little bit of Christmas spirit with you into the new year! So, don’t be too quick to part with these seasonal treasures—give them the love they deserve, and they’ll reward you with blooms and greenery season after season.

Got any questions about your holiday plants? Feel free to ask our experts at any of our 7 locations!

 

Shop Online Here!

 

 

NORFOLK ISLAND PINE

Norfolk Island Pine 101: Indoor Care Tips for a Happy Tree

The Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla) is one of those versatile and charming plants that can easily steal the spotlight whether it’s gracing your living room or beautifying your garden. Although it’s not a true pine tree, it has a similar stately, evergreen appearance that makes it stand out. It’s often associated with Christmas because of its tree-like structure, but it’s a wonderful plant to enjoy year-round. So, if you’re wondering how to keep your Norfolk Island Pine thriving!

 

norfolk island pine

 

What’s So Special About Norfolk Island Pine?

Native to Norfolk Island in the South Pacific, this plant has a tropical vibe while still maintaining the classic “pine” look we associate with the holidays. Indoors, it makes a perfect little house tree, growing slowly and staying manageable. Outdoors in the right climate (that’s way down south in zones 10 and 11), it can become a tall and impressive specimen tree!

Fun fact: In its natural habitat, it can grow over 200 feet tall! But don’t worry—indoors it grows much more slowly, topping out around 6 feet if given the space.

Now, let’s break down how to care for this beauty!

 

Light: Bright, But Indirect

Norfolk Island Pines love bright, indirect light. Place your plant near a sunny window, but make sure it doesn’t sit in the direct sun all day. Too much sunlight can cause the needles to brown, while too little light can make the plant grow leggy (stretched out) as it searches for the sun. If you don’t have a spot with enough natural light, a grow light can help give it a boost.

Tip: Rotate your plant every few weeks so it grows evenly and doesn’t lean toward the light source.

 


Watering: Just Right

The Norfolk Island Pine prefers soil that’s moist but not waterlogged. The trick is to water when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry to the touch. Water thoroughly, letting the excess drain out of the pot’s bottom, and then wait until the soil dries out before watering again. Too much water can lead to root rot, while too little can make the needles turn brown and crispy.

During winter months, when the plant isn’t growing as much, reduce your watering schedule. Your pine won’t need as much water during this time.

Tip: If you’re unsure, it’s better to err on the side of slightly dry rather than overwatered. They’re more tolerant of drought than soggy soil.

 


Humidity: Keep It Moist

Being from a tropical island, Norfolk Island Pines thrive in humid environments. If the air in your home is too dry (especially in the winter when the heat is on), the tips of the branches might start to brown. To keep the air around your plant humid, you can:

  • Use a humidifier near the plant.
  • Place a humidity tray (a shallow dish filled with water and pebbles) under the pot.

 

Norfolk Island Pines will appreciate the extra humidity and reward you with lush, green branches.

 


Temperature: Cozy and Stable

Your Norfolk Island Pine prefers normal room temperatures between 65°F and 75°F. Avoid cold drafts from doors or windows, and keep the plant away from heat sources like radiators or vents that could dry it out. Sudden temperature changes or extremes can stress the plant, so aim to keep its environment steady and comfortable.

 


Fertilizing: Feed It During the Growing Season

In spring and summer, you can give your Norfolk Island Pine a little boost by fertilizing it. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (like a Espoma Organics Indoor) once a month to encourage healthy growth. In the fall and winter, the plant’s growth slows down, so you can stop fertilizing until the next spring.


Repotting: Only When Necessary

Norfolk Island Pines grow slowly indoors, so you won’t need to repot often—probably only every 3-4 years. When you do, choose a pot that’s just one size larger (approximately 2 inches bigger in diameter) than the current one and use a well-draining potting mix. A good mix for this plant would be something with a combination of regular potting soil, sand, and perlite for drainage.


Common Indoor Problems and Solutions

Even with the best care, you might encounter a few issues with your Norfolk Island Pine. Here’s how to handle the most common problems:

  • Browning Tips: If you notice the needle tips turning brown, it’s often due to low humidity or underwatering. Increase humidity around the plant or adjust your watering schedule.
  • Yellowing or Drooping Branches: This can be a sign of overwatering. Check the soil and make sure it’s not soggy. Allow it to dry out before watering again.
  • Leggy Growth: If your plant starts looking stretched out with long spaces between branches, it’s not getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot or supplement with a grow light.

NORFOLK ISLAND PINE

 

The Norfolk Island Pine is a wonderful indoor companion, bringing an air of grace and calm to any room. With the right balance of light, water, and humidity, it will thrive and stay green year-round. It’s slow-growing, so you won’t need to worry about it outgrowing your space anytime soon—just enjoy its beauty and tropical charm!

 

Visit any of our 7 locations this holiday season and pick one up for yourself and may your Norfolk Island Pine bring a bit of island magic to your home! 🌿

SHOP NORFOLK PINE ONLINE

 

african violet

A Guide to Indoor Flowering Plants

Who doesn’t love a pop of color inside the home? Indoor flowering plants are a wonderful way to brighten up any space, add life to your decor, and bring nature indoors. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced green thumb, there’s an indoor flowering plant that can fit your lifestyle and space.

In this post, we’re going to talk about some popular indoor flowering plants—Kalanchoe, indoor roses, and others—and give you easy tips on how to care for them. Let’s get growing!

 

rieger

1.Rieger Begonias

Rieger begonias are prized for their bright, abundant blooms that come in colors like pink, red, yellow, orange, and white. These compact, bushy plants are perfect for adding vibrant color indoors, especially during the winter months when they typically bloom.

Care Tips:

  • Light: Rieger begonias thrive in bright, indirect light. Too much direct sunlight can cause leaf burn, but they need plenty of light to keep blooming.
  • Watering: Keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Avoid letting the plant sit in water, as Rieger begonias are prone to root rot.
  • Temperature: They prefer cooler indoor temperatures, between 60–70°F. High heat can cause them to stop blooming, so keep them away from heaters or drafts.
  • Bonus Tip: Deadhead (remove) spent blooms to encourage continuous flowering. Rieger begonias also benefit from a balanced fertilizer every few weeks during their growing season for even more vibrant blooms!

 

2. Kalanchoe (and Calandiva*)

Kalanchoes are succulent plants that bloom in clusters of small, vibrant flowers in shades of red, orange, pink, yellow, and white. They’re low-maintenance and ideal for busy gardeners or anyone who tends to forget watering! Calandiva is a beautiful variety of kalanchoe, featuring double blooms that look like tiny roses. These multi-petaled flowers come in shades of pink, red, yellow, orange, and white, and what makes Calandiva extra special is how long the blooms last—up to 6–8 weeks—which is longer than traditional kalanchoe flowers.

Care Tips for Both Plants:

  • Light: Bright light is key for both kalanchoe and Calandiva. They can even handle a little direct sunlight.
  • Watering: Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Since they are succulents, they store water in their leaves and are more drought-tolerant.
  • Temperature: Both plants enjoy warmer temperatures (between 60–85°F) and adapt well to typical indoor environments.
  • Bonus Tip: Deadhead (remove) spent flowers to encourage more blooms. After they finish blooming, they may need a short resting period before flowering again.

*Calandiva is a specific variety of kalanchoe with double blooms and extended flowering periods.

 

 

3. Miniature Roses

Miniature indoor roses bring all the charm of garden roses into your home, with full, fragrant blooms that brighten any room. They do require a bit more care than some other indoor plants, but the reward is worth it!

Care Tips:

  • Light: Roses need lots of bright light to thrive—ideally 6 hours a day. A sunny windowsill is best, or even some supplemental grow lights if needed.
  • Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
  • Humidity & Temperature: They like good air circulation and cooler temperatures (between 60–75°F). Misting or a humidifier can help keep them happy indoors.
  • Bonus Tip: Prune your rose plant regularly to encourage new growth and more flowers. Don’t be afraid to trim it back—it’ll come back even stronger!

 

 

4. African Violets

African violets are classic indoor flowering plants that are beloved for their continuous blooms and compact size. Their velvety leaves and charming purple, pink, or white flowers are sure to steal the show.

Care Tips:

  • Light: Bright, indirect light is best, as direct sunlight can scorch their leaves. A north or east-facing window works well.
  • Watering: Water from the bottom (like cyclamen) or carefully at the base, avoiding water on the leaves, which can cause spotting. Keep the soil evenly moist.
  • Temperature: Keep them in a warm room (between 65–75°F) with consistent humidity.
  • Bonus Tip: African violets can bloom year-round if they’re happy, so feed them a little bit of fertilizer designed for flowering plants every few weeks during the growing season.

 

 

 

5. Peace Lily

Though more known for its lush green leaves, the peace lily also produces beautiful white “flowers” (technically a spathe and spadix). It’s an excellent indoor plant because it’s both beautiful and easy to care for.

Care Tips:

  • Light: Peace lilies can tolerate lower light conditions but bloom best in bright, indirect light.
  • Watering: They like to be watered when the top inch of soil is dry. They’re also very forgiving, wilting slightly to let you know when they need a drink!
  • Temperature: They thrive in warmer, humid environments (65–85°F). They’ll love a spot in the bathroom or near a humidifier.
  • Bonus Tip: Wipe the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust and keep them shiny.

 

 

6. Anthurium

With its glossy leaves and striking red, pink, or white flowers, Anthurium is a showstopper. It’s also quite hardy, making it a great option for beginners or those who want a stunning indoor plant without too much fuss.

Care Tips:

  • Light: Bright, indirect light is ideal. Too much direct sunlight can scorch the leaves.
  • Watering: Water when the top layer of soil dries out, and ensure good drainage.
  • Temperature: Warm temperatures (65–80°F) and high humidity are best for anthuriums.
  • Bonus Tip: Anthuriums are toxic to pets, so if you have curious cats or dogs, keep these out of reach!

 

 

 

7. Indoor Mums

Indoor mums are known for their dense, vibrant blooms in shades of yellow, pink, purple, red, and white. They’re perfect for adding color to your home, especially in the fall.

Care Tips:

  • Light: Mums love bright, indirect light. Place them in a well-lit spot, but avoid direct sun, which can be too harsh.
  • Watering: Keep the soil evenly moist. Don’t let it dry out, but make sure it’s not waterlogged either.
  • Temperature: Mums prefer cooler temperatures (between 60–70°F). Too much heat can shorten their bloom time.
  • Bonus Tip: Pinch off spent blooms to encourage more flowers and extend their blooming period

 

 

 

8. Cyclamen

Cyclamen are those elegant plants with delicate, butterfly-like flowers and heart-shaped leaves. Their blooms come in shades of pink, red, white, and purple, and they usually bloom during the winter months, making them perfect for adding color when it’s cold and gray outside.

Care Tips:

  • Light: Cyclamen like bright, indirect light. A sunny windowsill that doesn’t get direct midday sun is ideal.
  • Watering: Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water from the bottom (set the pot in a saucer of water for a few minutes), so the leaves stay dry.
  • Temperature: They prefer cooler temperatures (around 50–65°F). A chilly room or a spot away from heaters is perfect.
  • Bonus Tip: Cyclamen go dormant after blooming. Don’t panic if the leaves start to yellow; just reduce watering, let the plant rest, and it should come back next season.

 

 


A Few General Indoor Flowering Plant Care Tips:

  • Humidity: Many flowering plants love humidity! If your home is dry, consider grouping plants together or using a humidifier.
  • Fertilizer: Most flowering plants benefit from a balanced fertilizer during the growing season (spring through summer). Look for fertilizers specifically for flowering plants to encourage more blooms.
  • Pruning: Regularly removing dead or yellowing leaves and spent flowers helps keep your plant healthy and encourages new growth.

Final Thoughts

Indoor flowering plants are a joy to have around. With their bright blooms and fresh foliage, they make any space feel more lively and welcoming. While each type has its own specific care needs, once you get to know them, they’re not hard to take care of. Plus, with the right attention, many of them will reward you with blooms for months on end!  Come visit us at any one our 7 locations to pick up a beautiful indoor flowering plant of your own!

Happy planting, and remember—don’t be afraid to experiment with different plants to find your favorites. Each one will bring a little bit of beauty into your life!

 

 

 

Person Repotting a plant

How to Bring Houseplants Indoors: A Step-by-Step Guide

As temperatures drop, it’s time to start thinking about bringing your houseplants back indoors. Transitioning plants from the outdoor growing season to indoor conditions can be tricky, but with a little preparation, you can ensure your plants stay healthy and thriving all winter long. Here’s how to do it:

 

Preparing Your Plants

  1. Repotting (3-4 Weeks in Advance):
    Start by repotting your plants at least 3-4 weeks before bringing them inside. This allows your plants to settle into fresh soil, which helps control soil pests and gives them a chance to adjust before the move.
  2. Soak in Soapy Water:
    Another option, especially for plants that prefer moist soil, is to submerge the entire pot in mild, soapy water for about 15 minutes. This will help eliminate any soil hitchhikers like pests that may have settled in during the summer months.
  3. Clean the Leaves:
    Thoroughly clean the leaves with mild, soapy water to remove dirt, dust, and pests. After cleaning, let the foliage dry completely. This is an essential step to ensure your plants are free of any unwanted pests before they come inside.
  4. Inspect for Pests:
    Once the foliage is dry, carefully inspect the undersides of the leaves and crevices where pests often hide. If you find any remaining pests, treat them with an appropriate control product to prevent infestations indoors. We recommend using Bonide All Seasons Horticultural Oil to effectively eliminate pests ( and their eggs)  before bringing your plants inside. Simply apply it to the leaves and stems to ensure no bugs follow your plants indoors.
  5. Acclimate Your Plants:
    Acclimating your plants to indoor conditions is crucial for their health. Start by bringing them indoors at night and gradually increase the time they spend inside each day. This slow transition helps them adjust to lower light levels and indoor humidity.

Caring for Your Plants Indoors

  1. Reduce Watering and Feeding:
    Once your plants are inside, reduce watering and feeding. Indoor conditions are typically less humid, and overwatering can lead to root rot. Keep an eye on soil moisture and adjust your watering schedule accordingly. For more watering tips, read our blog on winter watering for houseplants.
  2. Use Supplemental Grow Lights:
    For plants placed in darker spaces, supplemental grow lights can make a big difference. You can easily place a grow bulb in your favorite lamp to provide the extra light your plants need to stay healthy during the winter months.

 

Image of Philodendron

 

By following these steps, you can ensure a smooth transition for your houseplants as they move back indoors. With a little care and attention, your plants will continue to thrive, bringing greenery and life to your indoor spaces all year long.

 

 

 

Alyssum Banker Plant in Winchester

Harnessing Nature’s Army: Banker Plants and Beneficial Insects in the Greenhouse

If you’re an avid gardener or just someone who loves to immerse themselves in the beauty of plants, you might have heard of Integrated Pest Management or IPM. IPM is a smart and sustainable way to handle pests. Instead of relying solely on chemicals, IPM uses a combination of techniques like biological control (using beneficial insects as natural predators), crop rotation, diligent and frequent scouting of plants for pests, and traps.  By understanding pest behaviors and the ecosystem, IPM aims to keep pests at manageable levels without harming the environment.  It’s all about smart strategies that protect crops and gardens effectively while being mindful of nature’s balance.

An amazing tool in the IPM tool kit is the incredible duo of banker plants and beneficial insects. But what exactly are they, and how do they work their magic in greenhouse spaces? Let’s dive in!

 

Banker Plants: The Silent Guardians of Greenhouses

Imagine a bustling metropolis where every citizen has a role to play in maintaining peace and harmony. In the world of greenhouses, banker plants are the unsung heroes playing a similar role. But what exactly are banker plants?

Banker plants are sacrificial plants strategically placed within a greenhouse to attract and sustain populations of beneficial insects. These plants act as a food source, habitat, or breeding ground for these tiny warriors, allowing them to thrive and multiply.

 

Alyssum Banker Plant in Winchester

 

Beneficial Insects: Nature’s Pest Control Squad

Now, let’s meet the stars of the show – beneficial insects. While the term “insect” might conjure up images of creepy crawlies, these tiny creatures are the knights in shining armor of the plant kingdom. Beneficial insects are nature’s own pest control squad, preying on harmful pests that threaten the health of greenhouse plants.

Lacewings, predatory mites, and parasitic wasps are just a few examples of beneficial insects that can be deployed in greenhouse spaces. These tiny warriors patrol the leaves, stems, and soil, seeking out and devouring pests like aphids, mites, thrips and whiteflies, keeping the greenhouse ecosystem in balance.

Here at Mahoney’s our tiny warriors are a type of insect known as Orius Insidiosus, also known as Minute Pirate Bug, who feed on smaller insects, spider mites, thrips and other common plant pests.  Interested in learning more about these greenhouse pirates?  Check out Cornell University’s informational page here!

 

Photo of orius, a beneficial insect

 

The Greenhouse Harmony: How Banker Plants and Beneficial Insects Work Together

Now that we’ve met our heroes, let’s see how they team up to keep the greenhouse clean and green without the need for harmful chemicals.

  1. Attract and Sustain: Banker plants act as a beacon, luring beneficial insects into the greenhouse with their enticing aroma and nectar-rich flowers. Once inside, these insects find a haven where they can feed, breed, and establish their population.
  2. Hunt and Protect: Beneficial insects, fueled by the resources provided by banker plants, scour the greenhouse in search of prey. When they encounter harmful pests, they unleash their natural predatory instincts, effectively keeping pest populations in check.
  3. Ecosystem Balance: By harnessing the power of nature’s own pest control mechanisms, greenhouses can achieve a delicate balance within their ecosystem. Rather than resorting to chemical pesticides that can harm beneficial insects and disrupt the natural order, they can rely on banker plants and beneficial insects to maintain a harmonious environment.

 

Beneficial Predatory Insect

The Benefits of Going Green with Banker Plants and Beneficial Insects

Embracing banker plants and beneficial insects offers a plethora of benefits:

  • Environmentally Friendly: By reducing reliance on chemical pesticides, it’s not only safeguarding the health of the plants but also minimizing the ecological footprint.
  • Improved Plant Health: With pests kept in check, plants can thrive without the stress of constant attacks, leading to healthier growth and higher yields.
  • Enhanced Biodiversity: By fostering a diverse ecosystem within greenhouses, it’s more than just growing plants; it’s nurturing a vibrant community of insects and microorganisms that contribute to overall ecosystem health.

 

Mahoney's Winchester Banker Plants

The banker plants and their insects have been hard at work at our growing greenhouses in Woburn as our Mahoney’s Grown plants mature.  But now that these plants have been sent to any one of our 7 locations, the banker plants have gone with them to keep the plants happy and healthy until you can take them home.

Next time you visit one of our greenhouses you may see a plant with a sign proclaiming ‘Banker Plant’, be sure to stop by and say hello to our tiny warriors!

 

Want to see some of the plants these pirate bugs are protecting?  Check out our online shop here!

 

Growing Citrus in New England – don’t be afraid to try!

citrus plant in greenhouse in new englandWhen we think of citrus in the US most of us call to mind the warm and sunny climates in Florida and California where oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, and kumquats can flourish outdoors. But even in New England, where our winters are not exactly conducive to growing tropical plants, we can get creative and enjoy fragrant citrus blossoms, gorgeous glossy foliage, and homegrown vitamin C! 

So, if you’re a Bay Stater looking to enjoy your very own oranges or fresher than fresh lemonade, we’re here to help! Here are a few things to keep in mind when growing citrus in Massachusetts:

 

Location, location, location.  

Citrus plants are hardy in zones 8, 9, and 10 and won’t survive winters outdoors here in zone 6 so it’s important that you ensure your citrus plants have a winter residence inside your house as well as a summer home outdoors. Offer at least a few hours of direct sunlight each day all year round. What does “direct sunlight” mean indoors? Placing your citrus plant within 3-4 feet of a South-facing window with unobstructed light (be sure to check for interfering shade trees or overhangs outside) is ideal. South-facing windows offer the greatest amount of light throughout the day. A close second when it comes to bright indoor light is western exposure where you get a few hours of strong afternoon sun each day. 

 

How can you tell which direction your windows face?  

  1. Pay attention to where the sun rises and sets in relation to your home (the sun rises in the east and sets in the west) 
  2. Locate your home on GPS to find the cardinal direction your home faces.
  3. Use a compass, simple but highly effective. 

No south-facing windows? You may still be able to give citrus a go! Try out a grow light or start with a very small citrus plant and you may be able to help it adapt to lower light conditions! 

 

Tips for relocating your citrus when the time comes: 

  1. Choose a smaller variety that’s easier to move. Good choices include tangerines, ponderosa or Meyer lemons, and Satsuma or Calamondin oranges.
  2. If you want to use a larger variety, consider adding a plant dolly on casters to make it easy to roll in and out of the house.
  3. Remember that when you bring your citrus outside for the summer it will need to gradually acclimate to full sun. Start by placing the tree in a semi-shady location and move it little by little into full sun over two weeks.  

 

Temperature 

Citrus plants say brrrrrr when temperatures dip below 50 degrees at night. Watch the weather for a clue as to the best time of year to bring your plants indoors. Indoors, citrus plants are happiest when they are kept in temps between 65 and 70 during the day and 55 to 60 at night.  

 

Water

Citrus plants will be happiest if soil is evenly moist but not too wet. A moisture meter is something to consider when growing citrus. During the summer when your container is outdoors in full sun, give a thorough watering twice each week. Use a watering wand or watering can to separate the stream and mimic rain and water the entire surface area of the soil until you see a little water dribble out of the drainage holes. In winter, you’ll water less but you may want to consider using a humidifier to mitigate the dry indoor air. Check out our winter watering guide for more tips! 

Avoid putting your citrus plants in the same room as a wood-burning stove. This may create conditions that are far too dry for healthy citrus to thrive. 

 

Pollinating

Citrus flowers need to be pollinated to set fruit, and the most important pollinators for citrus trees are bees! So, if you want fruit you’ll need to ensure that your citrus plants spend the warm months in their summer home for plenty of playtime with their winged buzzing friends.  

If your citrus plant sets flowers during the winter months, you’ll need to manually pollinate with a paintbrush or Q-Tip. This is easy enough to do. Gently brush the pollen-covered anthers with a paintbrush and then touch your brush to the stigma in the center of the flower. Check out this video to see how easy it is! 

 

 

Fertilizing.  

Citrus plants are heavy micro-nutrient feeders and require a special diet to stay healthy. We recommend fertilizing with True Organic Citrus and Avocado Food or Espoma Citrus Tone every 3-4 weeks during the growing season (March – August). Avoid feeding your plant during the winter months, this is the time to avoid encouraging new growth. Let them rest. 

 

Pest management.  

Like all fragrant plants, citrus has a habit of attracting unwanted pests. To mitigate this, give your plants a good shower with a hose before bringing them inside for the winter. Let them dry then spray all the foliage and stems with Captain Jack’s Citrus, Fruit, and Nut Orchard Concentrate or neem oil.  

Growing tropical plants outside the tropics isn’t easy but it’s oh so satisfying. Remember to be patient with yourself and with your plants…when it comes to plant cultivation, there is no such thing as a green thumb or a black thumb. It’s the patient, inquisitive thumb that will find the greatest rewards.

For more information, download our printable Citrus Care Guide!

 

 

 

  

Houseplants: They’re Not As Thirsty As You Think

TIPS FOR WINTER HOUSEPLANT WATERING

Winter is a wonderful time of year to cultivate your very own indoor jungle and bask in the glory of nature while staying warm and dry at home. Whether you’re new to indoor plant parenthood or a seasoned veteran with teenaged plants at home it won’t surprise you that the number one question we hear in the greenhouse is “how much should I water?”

And while we’d love to give you a tried and true, one-size-fits-all watering recipe, the truthful answer is “it depends.” Light, humidity, plant species, and time of year all play a role but here are a few rules of thumb for keeping your indoor plants happy all year long.

      1. It’s easier for a plant to recover from too little water than too much water. Overwatering can lead to root rot and fungal issues on the foliage. Many indoor plants will thrive on a fair amount of neglect.
      2. Plants prefer infrequent deep watering over frequent shallow waterings. Resist the temptation to dump the remnants of your forgotten water glass into your plants, they won’t thank you for that.
      3. Light and water work together. The more light your plant receives, the more water it will need. Plants in low light areas will need less water than their sun-basking friends.
      4. Cut watering frequency in half during the winter months. Plants use less water in winter than they do during the growing season. Generally speaking, you’ll water half as often in winter as you would during spring and summer.
      5. Plants love to be watered from the bottom, when possible. Check out our video on “cache-potting” for the best way to do this!

 

houseplants

 

So, how can you tell if your houseplants need water? Here are our favorite ways to find out if our leafy green friends want us to make ‘em a round of drinks:

      1. The knuckle test: stick your finger right into the pot all the way up to your knuckle. If it’s still moist, you can skip the watering.
      2. The weight test: for smaller plants lift the pot. If it feels light, it’s probably time for a drink. If it’s heavy, there’s plenty of water to sustain her for now.
      3. The thump test: if your plants are in plastic nursery pots give the side of the pot a flick. If you hear a hollow thwack, time to water, if it’s more of a thump or thud, she’s not thirsty.

 

Keep in mind that different plants have different watering needs, when in doubt chat with one of our greenhouse team members to learn more about your new plants’ preferences. As Uncle Mike likes to say: “plants are like people”…everyone’s a little different.

 

 

A BEGINNERS GUIDE: CARING FOR HOUSEPLANTS

Caring for indoor plants is really pretty easy. Plants need light, water and fertilizer to grow and flourish. Different plants have different requirements and some plants are easier than others. If you are a beginner – or if you are really busy and need something low maintenance – start with one of our easy care houseplants. These plants are durable, will handle a range of indoor temperatures in your home and will withstand a bit of watering neglect.

HOW MUCH LIGHT DOES MY INDOOR PLANT NEED?

This is a key question and one you need to ask before deciding which houseplant to bring home. Light requirements are divided into 3 groups:

  • Full Sun
    4 to 6 hours a day direct sun – try a southern exposure.
  • Medium Light
    2 to 3 hours of direct sun, or 6 to 8 hours of bright indirect light, typically eastern or western exposure, or perhaps southern exposure but not placed directly near a window.
  • Low Light
    No direct sunlight, but some indirect light, or even 8 or more hours a day of electric lights (regular incandescent, fluorescent, etc.)

Some plants are more sensitive to light fluctuations than others. For best results pick a houseplant that matches your room’s available light. Look at the plant label to see its group, or just ask us.

HOW TO WATER YOUR INDOOR PLANTS:

After determining the right amount of light, you need to know a little bit about watering. Surprisingly enough, the #1 reason houseplants fail to thrive is OVERWATERING, and that is because many people look at the top surface of the soil to decide when to water. Soil often looks dry on top, even when the plant has plenty of moisture. The real question is how moist the soil is below the surface.

Stick your finger right into the soil to a depth of 2” (about to your second knuckle). Gently pull it out look near the knuckle. You should be able to see if the soil is dry, slightly moist or very wet. Sort of like a human cake tester.

  • If the soil is dry at this 2” depth, it is time to water.
  • If the soil is slightly moist, wait a day or more.
  • If the soil is downright wet at this depth, cut back on how frequently you water.

If possible, water your plants in the morning and use tepid (slightly warm) water.

Water thoroughly and slowly, but stop as soon as water runs through the drainage holes. Make sure that the soil is thoroughly wet when you are finished. If the water runs through the drainage hole too quickly, the pot may be crammed with roots and contain too little soil. In this case it may be time to repot.

It’s important not to leave excess water in the saucer – roots can rot if constantly wet. An alternative is to fill your drainage dish with a layer of small pebbles or river rocks. The rocks will keep the bottom of the pot elevated over excess water.

DO I NEED TO FERTILIZE MY HOUSEPLANTS?

We regularly feed our houseplants. When you bring it home it is important to continue this care – especially if it is a flowering plant. As a rule of thumb, houseplants should be fed every other week in spring, summer and early fall. As light levels diminish in November, your plant will need less fertilization – once a month or less. Using a complete liquid fertilizer will ensure healthy, thriving plants. Follow package instruction carefully – too much fertilizer can be worse than too little.

Follow these three guidelines and even the most notorious plant killer can enjoy happy healthy plants in many rooms in their home, dorm or office.

AIR CLEANING HOUSEPLANTS

Airborne toxins such as formaldehyde, TCE and benzene are present in every home and office. That’s because these compounds are found in countless products used everyday: paints, varnishes, plastics, rubber, insulation and particleboard. Even permanent-pressed clothes, grocery bags and facial tissue contribute harmful toxins in the air you breath. Worse yet, symptoms from these toxins include eye, nose and throat irritation, headaches, allergic dermatitis, chronic respiratory diseases and neuropsychological problems. Yikes!

Houseplants fight air pollution by absorbing these harmful contaminants. NASA researchers discovered that certain houseplants can reduce indoor pollutants by 87 percent in 24 hours. So, why not add several plants to your home and office? You’ll love the look and breathe easier, too!

1. FICUS ELASTICA – RUBBER PLANT

This beatiful plant will grow to be a dramatic feature in any home or office

A bold tree, with its large, rubbery leaves, on stems as straight as exclamation points! This variety is a winner indoors – give it as much indirect light as possible and keep away from drafts – you’ll have plently of joyful years ahead with your new houseplant. Although they enjoy humidity, they also tolerate lower humidity levels.

2. ARACEAE EPIPREMNUM – POTHOS

An easy indoor vine that anyone can grow.

While In the wild they can overwhelm a hundred foot tall tree; in your house they will simply trail nicely down a plant stand. One of the top ten clean air plants, Pothos help remove formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from the air. When a vine gets too long, simply prune it from the top (close to the soil) to encourge new growth near the center of the plant.

3. ARACEAE SPATHIPHYLLUM – PEACE LILY

Thrives in lower light – so it’s lovely in dining and living rooms, offices, etc. Purifies the air, too.

Another one of our very popular “Easy Care” houseplants, these beautiful Peace Lilies have striking white flowers and beautiful foliage.They remove air borne toxins, too! They like water and misting more in the summer, less in the winter. They can bloom twice a year if fertilized. Try the slow release Osmocote.

4. FICUS BENJAMINA – FICUS TREE

A beautiful tree that you can grow in your house.

This Ficus tree is a classic in office lobbies and atriums It tolerates some full sun but is best in filtered sun. Do not overwater; allow the soil to dry and inch or two below the surface. What it like best is to be keep in one spot; moving it from one environment to another can cause it to drop leaves. Allow it to acclimate if you are dramatically changing its home.

5. DRACAENA FRAGRANS “MASSANGEANA” – CORN PLANT

A houseplant that thrives in either bright or low light!

One of our most popular “Easy Care” houseplants, this low maintenance miracle resembles the leaves of corn stalks. Although it tolerates neglect, be sure to not over-water or over-fertilize, and never place your corn plant in a draft or direct sun. This slow-growing houseplant will give you visual pleasure for years to come!

6. AGLAONEMA – CHINESE EVERGREEN

One of the easiest houseplants to grow – now available in exciting new hybrids.

Aglaonema are popular at home, dorms and offices because they are both great looking and very dependable. Check out the hybrids for fresh new color options. In general the green varieties tolerate low light whereas the colorful varieties need brighter light (check tag). Considered a lucky plant in Asian culture, Aglaonema like to be kept moist but not soaking wet.

7. CHAMAEDOREA ERUMPENS – BAMBOO PALM

Looking for a palm that tolerates shade? Stop right here!

Beautiful, tall and graceful, this palm adapts well to a variety of different light environments. Plus it’s proven to help clean the air toxins in your home or office. Although this palm is relatively low-maintenance, it likes to be misted once in a while. An inexpensive, beautiful addition to your decor!

8. SYNGONIUM PODOPHYLLUM – ARROWHEAD VINE

Great easy care houseplant for a hanging basket or as a climber!

The arrow-shaped leaves on this easy houseplant make it a great option for places where a climber or hanger work better. Arrowhead vines will tolerate low light but will grow much better in bright, indirect light. They like to be moist at all times, but not soggy. Arrowhead vines like to be root-bound and therefore do not need to be repotted very often.

9. SCHEFFLERA ARBORICOLA – ARBORICOLA

The perfect match for anyone wanting a houseplant!

You can’t beat an Arboricola! It can tolerate a wide variety of soil types and light conditions. Depending on where you place your plant and how much light it gets, you might have different size & colored leaves, but your Arboricola will love you just the same! During the winter watch the moisture levels and mist as needed. One tip is to place the pot on a tray of river rocks.